At just under three-quarters of a mile long, The Narrows is perhaps the largest crag in the state. For years climbers have driven under it, and gazed up, wondering how to get there, and what the rock was like. During those years, a very few hearty souls actually managed to brave the trek to the rocks and do a few routes. PATC has been there a few times some decade or three ago, and a handful of other climbers (such as local guide Darrel Spence) have visited the wall, but left about as quietly as they came. For whatever reason, word of their feats never really reached the climbing community. And so the crag slumbered for years, with the only visitors being locals who would sit up on top to make out, or drink and toss their beer bottles in the void below, or both. Even the geocaching community attempted to foster interest in this area by putting a geocache atop of the cliffs, but so few geocachers bothered to visit it, the cache was eventually removed. The place was too remote, too far off the normal beaten track - even if it was just a couple miles outside of downtown Cumberland.

The main wall of The Narrows. "1" is the top of Cumber Honey, "2" is the top of the Jim Pick Wall

Then in mid-2002 Mike Varlotta of Pittsburgh hooked up with Darrel Spence, and through conversation Darrel led Mike and a small group of other Pittsburghians to The Narrows. With dropped jaws, Mike and crew were understandably awed and impressed. Here was a goldmine of untouched, BIG rock, about 2 hours distant from Pittsburgh! And while, yes, they knew some routes had already been done, it was very clear that a lot of the area had never been climbed. So began a campaign over the next few years to begin developing the area, putting up new routes and making them safe by trundling literally tons of loose rock from the walls above. It was adventure climbing at its finest. By the spring of 2004 there were 70 established routes, and by the end of that summer, over 100. 90% of these are noted in this webguide (that should be enough for you for now until the guide itself comes out, no? :-) The routes went from 5.2 to 5.10+, with the bulk of them in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. So not only was this a superb find, the bulk of the routes appear to be in the realm of your average climber. This was not to be an area where elite-only climbers could play.

To describe The Narrows, it is easiest to say that it is like Seneca Rocks, except laid horizontal like the Gunks. If you can imagine that, you have this place pretty much nailed down. Lots of ledges, numerous horizontals for gear placements, some quite imposing roofs, walls upwards of 200' tall allowing for multi-pitch climbing opportunities - everything a growing climber needs without travelling to Seneca or the Gunks.

Mike and his Pittsburghians, as well as more recently Indy and a handful of Marylanders, have been working steadily to develop the area: install and maintain trails, clear out loose rock, set up rappel stations, etc. While first-ascent fever does rage among climbers, it is asked of those climbers who come to visit this crag that they take a hand in helping maintain what is there, and not come out, do a few first ascents, then go away again. This is a resource for everyone, all climbers, and all should share in its growth and development, as unpleasant as some of those tasks are.

When you first come to this area it is encouraged and suggested that you stroll along the bottom and attempt(!) to identify various landmarks before you climb (difficult as that might be, esp when the foliage overgrows down low), in order to keep your bearings and learn where your access and decent areas are on the cliff. There are over a half dozen rap stations already established here, most of them easily reached by walking along the cliff. There should not be a need for too many more.

While a couple pitons do exist, there are no bolts at this crag (except at a couple of rap anchors), nor is there a need for any. For multi-pitch climbing, there are plenty of ledges to anchor off on. For single-pitch climbing, there are plenty of trees up high to use as anchors and rap stations. Some places can be set up on top-rope, but these are primarily over at the Far Wall area. Some of the shorter leads along the main section of cliff can be set as top-ropes, but someone will have to do a lead climb up them first. In any event, with so many other places in Maryland and the surrounding states already having a large number of top-rope crags, the top-rope routes here will not likely see much visitation for the time being.

Climbing at The Narrows
Given that the cruxes tend not to be sustained in the Seneca fashion, it has been found that sending the routes in one long pitch has given the most bang for the leader buck - almost all routes have been put up in a single pitch. However, since some of the routes are 180'+, and sometimes wander, it has been found to be extremely useful to climb using two 60-meter ropes and doubling up on cams. Otherwise, if you want to do routes in multi-pitch fashion (generally two pitches), a standard rack and single 50 to 60-meter rope will do the job (note, however, that a few rap stations require two 50-meter ropes!). Given the abundance of ledges, comfortable, well-protected stances should not be difficult to find.

Rock Quality
While most of the established routes here are pretty clean of loose rock, do not assume that every hold is solid - ALWAYS TEST SUSPECT HOLDS AND BLOCKS! You don't want to accidently pull on an abdomen-sized block that everyone else has managed to miss and drop it on your belayer, now, do you? There is still loose rock on a number of the climbs here, even those which have been done a few times over. Holds also might snap off over time. This isn't Seneca (which has loose rock still, after decades of people climbing there) or the mostly pristine Gunks. This is a new, pioneering area. Treat it with respect. And if you do find a large loose block but it is unsafe to trundle (due to the presence of others below you), please mark it with a chalk 'X' to let others know that it is a danger. Hopefully someone will be there to trundle it later when no others are below.

The rock itself is Tuscarora Sandstone, identical to that of Seneca. Except the strata is horizontal, not vertical (i.e., Gunks-like). For those of you who have frequented Seneca, this will be familiar yet "new" rock. Enjoy it!

Getting Off
There are a half dozen already-established rap stations for the main section of cliff, but if that isn't an option, you can still always walk off! It is suggested that on your first visit(s) you climb some of the routes near established rap stations in order to familiarize yourself with them as you venture further and further afield (acliff?) on other routes.

Remember that much of the main cliff band exceeds 150' in height, so it would be prudent for you to do double-rope raps (or do two raps if you have an intermediate rap station on hand; more common for people to do double-rope raps).

At present time the following rap stations are established with approximate associated heights:

• Kiddie Land - 50'
• Tunnel of Love (also known as Fun House rappel) - 80'
• Unexpected Party - 90'
• The Howling - 80' [there is also a shorter rap set on top of the cliff directly above (and down to) The Howling rap that allows convenient raps from any of the pitches that continue from The Howling ledge.
• Jim Pick - 120'. This bolted rap station is set discreetly near a tree ~15' below cliff top; can be reached via easy 3rd class ledge scrambling. A single 60-meter rope will get you close to the ground with rope stretch (you'll have to scramble the last 15' or so).
• When the Buffalo Roam - 190'; a black piece of webbing tied to a tree at the top of this climb, set back from the edge a few feet. It is recommended that you do this in two raps, as the friction of trying to pull the ropes down from here is...formidable. Also, take care when dropping your ropes that the knot tying the two ropes together is below the edge of the cliff (otherwise it'll very likely be caught on the roots and ground branches!). This rap station needs to be beefed up with at least another sling or two at some point.
• Shardly Worth It - 170'
• Sisters Rappel - 85'; this is set ~40' below the cliff top and can be reached via a series of ledges and easy 4th class scrambling. A short distance (about 100 yards) north of the rappel (at the top of the Ballad Wall) is a building and an antenna. Follow the jeep trail south along the ridge until it ends. Off a nice rock outlook stands a small "island" of rock, separated from the main ridge by a tiny gorge 10 feet deep and 5 or 6 feet across. (You can jump to the "island.") Climb down into the tiny gorge. The rappel is off a tree at the south end of the gorge. Be careful getting out to it!

If you are coming from the far end of the cliff and want to hike out, it's almost easier to just hike down the hill than deal with rapping off. But if it is just a couple of you and you don't want to deal with the steep road hike out, you can easily access the Jim Pick rap station via trails that run along the top of the cliff. For you climber-geeks out there, GPS coordinates for the rap stations have been included in the descriptions below.

Directions:

From Baltimore/D.C.
Take Exit 44 for Alt 40. Once off the highway, bear to the right and continue 0.7 miles until you are forced to turn hard to the right (the road before you will be one-way towards you, and there is a concrete median that will divert you to the right). A couple hundred feet later you will come to an angled intersection; head right. The road (Alt 40) is now once again two-way. After another 0.9 miles you'll have come to the third in a series of traffic lights. Turn right here onto Pear Street. At the first/next intersection turn left onto Columbia. Follow Columbia (~0.25 miles) until it ends with a yield sign at an angled Y-intersection with Piedmont Ave.

If you are going to the Far Wall area, turn right onto Piedmont and go up for about 0.2 miles to the base of WIlls Mountain Road. Park off to the side of the road opposite the houses.

If you are going to the main area (the tall, lead stuff), note that as of June 1, 2007, the parking situation has changed! In the past we had informal permission to park in the church's overflow parking lot. But recently they have been forced to deal with people abandoning cars in the lot, and have had to pony up for having these cars towed away. Very uncool of the people abandoning the cars there, and the fallout from this is if there are any cars that the church does NOT directly know about, nor have they given direct permission to, the cars will be ticketed and towed! This is the only solution they have right now for the problem. And alas, given the lack of parking for climbers, it can be problemmatic. So, if you are planning on climbing anywhere on the main wall, it is suggested (until such a time that the situation changes) that you park on the street somewhere and go in from there.

From I-68 west of Cumberland:
Take Exit 43D, follow the road until it turns left and comes to a stop sign. Turn right onto Park Street. Within 0.1 mile or so you will come to a multi-directional intersection and a sign indicating "JCT 40". Continue straight (very slightly left) through this intersection and then quickly turn right, getting into the left hand lane immediately. Within less than a rope length the left lane turns left. A couple hundred feet later you will reach the main run of Alt 40. Follow this to the third light (~0.75 miles) and turn right onto Pear Street. Follow the directions from this point as per above.

To The Rocks:
From the car - approach time is ~15 minutes to the main cliff! Walk west down Piedmont until the street ends. Take the right onto Zihlsman Way and follow that final street back until it ends several hundred feet later. Push on through the woods on a footpath and follow that, trending upwards (steep in places) until you reach a large, overhanging rock 'cave' called the Front Porch. There are faint pink blazes on some of the trees to keep you on the trail.

As noted in the directions above, if you plan to hit the Far Wall area, it is actually easier to hike up the PlastiCorps road to gain access to the state park fire road that will bring you over to that area. Follow this up until it turns sharply to the left towards the main PlastiCorps complex itself and a fire road (Wills Mountain Road; unmarked as such) leads uphill from the curve. Do not take the gated road straight ahead, but rather the gravel/rock dirt road left of that. Follow that to a large clearing atop of the cliffs (the Sunshine Buttress area will be off to your left). Off to the right is a trail in the woods. Follow that until it splits, and take the left fork. After about 5-10 minutes there will be a large, TV-sized arrowhead-shaped rock in the middle of the trail pointing off to the left, and a stack of rocks against a tree on the left. This is your turnoff marker for the Far Wall. The whole hike will take 40-60 minutes, depending on your individual hiking speed (it is essentially uphill pretty much the entire way; steepest section is the paved road, after which the grade eases back somewhat). Until the trail system is established at the base of the cliff all the way, this is the easiest manner in which to reach the Far Wall area.

Misc Info
The weekend of June 11, 2005, saw the first organized trail clean-up/maintenance weekend, in which no less than 5 tvs, a 5-CD player, a cassette radio, a sheet metal door, and the remains of a shopping cart were dragged from the base of the cliff to the trailhead, all filling up the volunteer pick-up truck. New stairs were put in place on the initial steep section of the approach trail, and belay platforms and steps were put in at the base of the Jim Pick Wall. Please help take care of these improvements to the area whenever you can, and please help take out any trash that the few not-so-caring locals feel they need to deposit over the top. Thanks!

Update for 2007: alas, two years after the above clean-up, the Narrows is in dire need of it once again. Currently, as of June 2007, there is now a computer and monitor, tent parts, driveway sports toys, beer cans galore, some steel rod structure thing, and an oven, most of this at the base near I Wanna Live/Shardly Worth It. Some stuff was taken out on the visit where this was all discovered, but there was enough that a more organized effort will need to be made.

Routes
Being so long, The Narrows is segregated into sections or segments, delineated by description and approximate GPS coordinates (for you high-tech geek climbers out there ;-).

If you feel you have done a new route, please contact myself and/or Mike Varlotta (412:561:8243) with the details so we can keep things recorded properly. There are new routes going up monthly. As this info comes to light, Mike will note it for the future guidebook and I'll have it posted here on the webguide.

Unless otherwise noted, all routes are listed from right to left.

This area is the most beginner-climb friendly of the entire cliff for several reasons:

• It is the first area you come to after following the trail to the base of the cliff,
• It is 40' from the Front Porch described in the Directions above, offering a convenient place to stash packs while climbing or to escape sudden storms,
• The climbs are all on the short side - ranging from 45' to 80' which allows for leading that is far less committing than the 150+' routes that are the norm on the remainder of the cliff,
• You can reach the top of the clibms in this area via a hiking trail that diverges from the approach trail about 3/4 of the way to the base (thus you can top-rope without having to lead anything and/or walk off your climbs to return to their base),
• The rock quality and gear placements are as good as anywhere on the cliff, and,
• Most significantly, there is a high concentration of very easy and easy-moderate leads that stay at the grade for their entire vertical length.

Free, But Worth It (5.3*) - 60'. Start 10' to the right of Monk on the short section of wall that meets the path. By taking the path of least resistance up this breadth of wall, you can keep the climbing at 5.3; by maintaining various directly lines you can add several grades to its level of difficulty.
FFA: Annie Jones, Chuck Jones & Mike Varlotta, April 2004.

Monk (5.6*) - 50'. Climb the left-facing corner on the short section of wall that is below and just to the right of the striking (but short) arete that is about 15' to the right of the Kiddie Land corner. Reach the ledges directly below the arete and then climb the arete and the crack just to its right. Take a step to the right where the arete is at its steepest in order to reach the big ledge while keeping the climb at 5.6 difficulty.
FFA: Mike Varlotta, Jim & Lori Johnson, April 2004.

Carousel (5.4**) - 50'. 5' to the right of Kiddie Land is a 15' crack that starts about 4' off the ground. Climb up the crack and then move slightly right ot the featured section of vertical wall that leads up to a big ledge. Like the two climbs to the immediate left, this is a great beginner lead. Nice easy moves on good vertical rock with good gear.

Top-rope variation (5.9) - Start about 5' to the right and climb directly up the face avoiding the crack on the left and the corner on the right.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Bill Forrester, March 2004.

Kiddie Land (5.3**) - 50'. In between where the two branches of the trail meet the rock is an obvious inside corner that leads to a rap station at a pine. Climb the wide crack, blocky corner, and flakes to the tree.
FFA: Mike Varlotta, November 2002.

Preschool Dropout (5.5**) - 50'. The days prior to putting up this climb, Gigi, Mike Varlotta's 4 year old, told me that she was "never, ever going back to preschool..." that there'd be "no more school until kindergarden.". Begin between the starts of Kiddie Land and Rain Check and climb up to the short right-facing hand crack/flake partway up the bottom third of the wall. Move up the crack through good stances and holds and then straight up to the top of the wall.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Jim Johnson, March 2004.

Rain Check (5.9*) - 80'. Begin 10' to the left of Kiddie Land and 15' to the right of Tunnel of Love. Climb straight up the wall aiming for the bulges/small roofs. The crux over the final bulge of this route is very brief, but it is probably two grades harder than the rest of the climb.
FFA: Will Dameron & Mike Varlotta, May 2003.

Tunnel of Love (5.6**) - 80'. Climb the leftmost part of the wall 25' to the left of Kiddie Land, aiming for the 'tunnel' 35' high. Step left of or climb over the tunnel then continue straight up to the ledge. Finish on fun 15' vertical section of wall to the rap station at the top. Nice, easy moderate lead. Good gear on good rock.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Jim Cirilano, November 2002.

To Great Lengths (5.8*) - 80'. Start directly in front of the tree that marks the arete between Fun House and Tunnel of Love. By running this line directly up the arete you can avoid sharing holds with the climbs on either sid. The roof at the bottom can be ascended in three distinct places: it's 5.7 on the left, 5.8 in the middle, and 5.9 on the right. Variation: Upon nearing the top of the arete, situate yourself on the headwall slightly behind and to the left of the ledges that cap the arete. Send the roof without the advantage of starting from the ledges (5.10).
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Will Dameron, May 2003.

Fun House (5.8*) - 80'. Climb the blocks and wide cracks 15' left and around the corner of Tunnel of Love. Continue straight through a series of three roofs, taking each at its widest point. Gain the ledge and finish as on the final vertical section of Tunnel of Love. Much like Rain Check, the crux is blind but brief.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Jim Cirilano, November 2002.

Mystery House (5.4) - 90'. Climb the first part of Fun House to the roofs, then traverse up and left on easy ground, finishing on the upper tiers of Mystery Scat. A variation of the two routes, really.

FFA: Johannes Reisert, Angela Roberst, Summer 2004

Mystery Scat (5.4*) - 80'. Climb the face 15' to the left of Fun House.
FFA: Chuck & Annie Jones, April 2004.

The One Pitch Wonder section starts about 40-60' right of Free But Worth It in Funland. A handful of routes wind their way up through and/or around overhangs and roofs. The rappel station is located at the GPS coordinates.

The routes in this section are listed left to right. It will help to be familiar with Funland first!

King Tut (5.5/5.6) - 65'. Begin next to a 6-inch diameter pine tree at the edge of a steep drop about 60' right of Free, But Worth It. Climb up the white block to a platform below a roof that forms the bottom of a blunt arete. Move right on the ledge and climb up the corner below a tree, passing the tree on the left (crux) to another ledge. Work up and trend right, passing several roofs, climbing short, steep sections to ledges, aiming for the pine tree at the top. The climb ends at a jumble of boulders just before the pine tree.
FFA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte and Johannes Reisert, May 2004.

I'm Too Sexy (5.7+/5.8-) - 55'. Begin 40' right of King Tut, at the right side of an open stretch of rock, at the low pointed arete. Climb up to the left side of a large, pointed block jutting out from beneath a roof about 30' up. Pull onto the block (crux) and ascend the 10' section of blank-looking slab to a huge ledge. Continue up easy rock immediately right of the massive roof to the pine tree (rappel). Alternate variations exist both at the first roof and for pulling through the larger, upper roof. A unique line could be put in starting about 10' left of this one and going straight up through the first roof and then somewhere through the second roof. If this were longer, cleaner, and not broken up by the large ledge, this could be a starred route.
FFA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte and Lisa V. Smith, August 2004

Jungle Love (5.3) - Begin around the corner 10' right of I'm Too Sexy, starting just right of a pine tree on a ledge about chest/head high (depending on your height). Climb up past the pine tree to a small, blocky roof on a steep section of rock. Step right around this, weaving through trees and bushes as you go (there are enough holds around that you do not need to bother with the trees or bushes). Once at the large ledge step forward and continue up to and through a square notch at the top of the wall (just avoid the 4th class escape gully to the right; it's not worth it).
FFA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte and Lisa V. Smith, August 2004

The following climbs can be reached by continuing along the path for 30' beyond the Front Porch mentioned in the preface to the first set of climbs (in the Funland area). There is a 30' breadth of wall that is about 40' high and marked by a small roof at waist height off the ground in the middle of its breadth. The upper rap station for this area is located at the GPS coordinates.

Unexpected Party (5.5** G) - 85'. A very popular route, and an excellent route for budding leaders, as the crux is at the bottom. Start the climb in the center of the wall at the small low roof mentioned above. Climb directly up the lower section of wall to reach the vegetated ledge (when in season - blueberries!!!). Romp directly up the next wall to a belay at the pine tree. Either finish on After Hours or rap from the pine tree. A most fun route for its grade.
FFA: Chuck Jones, Annie Jones & Mike Varlotta, April 2004.

After Hours (5.6R*) - 65'. (this could be thought of as the second pitch of Unexpected Party and the two climbs could be done in one long pitch) Continue directly up from the pine tree rap of the previous climb over 45' of very good rock to gain a ledge that is 20' from the top of the climb. Beware that the final 20' (off the ledge) surmounts rock of much lesser quality than what was below. To avoid that (R) section you could set a belay on the ledge from which you could walk to the right in order to reach the Tunnel Of Love rappel.
FFA: Mike Varlotta, Chuck & Annie Jones, April 2004.

The E Street Shuffle (5.2*) - 45'. Start on the ledge above Chuck's Wall, about 10' left of where Unexpected Party continues off the ledge. Climb the path of least resistance to the pine tree rap on the left side of the ledge from which After Hours begins.
FFA: Mike Varlotta, Chuck & Annie Jones, May 2004.

Chuck Left (5.?) - 40'. No route description available yet.

Chuck Middle (5.9TR) - 85'. Start to the left of Unexpected Party about about 10' right of the left side of the wall. Climb directly up the wall and take the roof at its widest point. The crux is short, bouldery, and very pumpy. Once at the ledge above (~40'), continue up following Unexpected Party.

House of Sticks (5.5) - 85'. Start just to the left of Chuck Middle and 5' from the left side of the wall. Climb up and left so that the roof can be passed on the left. Continue up the left side of the wall to the top.
FFA: Chuck Jones, Annie Jones & Mike Varlotta, May 2004.

Continue 150 feet along the trail to a large TV-sized boulder embedded in the middle of the path. From this boulder scramble to the base of the cliff up right for the next two routes.

Robinson Crusoe (5.7* G/PG) - 140'. One or two pitches, as you feel. Start a bit left of the center of the 20' concavity, aiming for upward to some sizeable right-facing flakes. Go around the flakes on the left (easier) or inside them to the right (harder) and continue up to a small tree ledge at 90'. Belay here or keep going. Make some awkward moves through the overhangs (with questionable rock quality) immediately above the ledge and saunter up the final 35-40' to the top. Take care not to kick off any of the loose rock on the ledges above onto your belayer below. Use either the Fun House/Tunnel Of Love rap station (over to the right) or the School House Rock rap station (just to the left along the gully).
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Will Dameron, November 2002.

Buddy (5.8**) - 120'. Begin slightly to the left of Robinson Crusoe climbing up and left on a diagonal through easy initial moves and then straight up to the top.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Will Dameron, June 2003

From the TV boulder continue another 120' on the main path to a slight upgrade where the trail meets the cliff.

How Yick Ying (5.5) - 160'. Start in the dihedral just around the right side of the lower crack that leads directly to the arete on the right side of The Howling face. Climb the dihedral to the first sloping earthen ledge. From there climb the wall on the left until it is possible to begin stemming up both right and left sides of the inside corner. Either end the first pitch on The Howling ledge, or move right of the ledge to gain the top section of the wall on the right side. Finish up by stemming the gap between the two sections of cliff until it is possible to climb up the left-facing corner of the wall on the right. Variation 1 (5.10) - Rather than finishing on the left-facing corner of the right wall, move out and right onto the face and up a series of short roofs to the top.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Nate Ghubril, November 2003

The Howling Arete (5.8-**) - 90'. Climb the crack (just to the left of the start of How Yick Ying) to the arete. Climb the arete proper to the ledge.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Nate Ghubril, November 2003

The Howling Direct (5.9-***) - 100'. Use the boulder start 8' to the right of The Howling start (5.8) and then climb the center of the wall through the overlaps to the roof mentioned above. Here, climb directly over the last roof to establish on the slab and then straight up the slab (5.9-) before moving back left to gain the exit notch. The crux section here is brief with a single, very small, but decent wire placement. The remainder of the climb (both before and after) offers very nice moves with good pro on good rock and the notch is reminiscent of the classic moderate "roofs" at the Gunks.
FFA: Will Dameron & Mike Varlotta, September 2002.

The Howling (5.7***) - 90'. Start directly above the point where the trail meets the cliff at the left-facing flakes/corner. Soon after start, move slightly right in order to continue up a series of overlaps that lead to a small roof below a clean 20' slab. Climb the corner to the left to the slabby wall and finish through the notch to the rap station at the pine tree on the ledge. Beware ants at the belay/rap station.
FFA: Will Dameron & Mike Varlotta, September 2002.

Varlotta's Daughters Would Totally Flash This (5.3*) - 50'. This climb starts from the far right side of The Howling ledge. Climb the highly featured section of headwall on the far right side of this section of wall. An enjoyable, easy lead.
FFA: Nate Ghubril & Mike Varlotta, November 2003

School House Rock (5.7***) - 80'. Climb up and left from The Howling pine tree ledge to directly beneath the large roof. Traverse back right underneath the roof until you can turn the corner. Finish going straight up. There is a rap station here that will get you back to The Howling rap ledge.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Will Dameron, September 2002.

The Christening (5.9*) - 180'. Uses the same start as Who Do You Believe for 50' up a series of easy big ledges. Aim for the double cracks that lead to the first roof that is an additional 25' above the ledges. After that roof continue up the headwall for another 25' and through a series of three roofs. At this point you can either finish on School House Rock or try to send the climb through the the two angled cracks out the left side of the roof.
FFA: Will Dameron & Mike Varlotta, June 2003.

Misty Splitter (5.9+*) - 180'. Use the same start as Who Do You Believe, 20' to the left of The Howling. Climb to the left of the pines on the ledge that is 50' high, and straight up to the roof. Jam out through prominent left-diagonalling hand crack that splits the roof at its widest point. Grab the lip and cut loose! A very easy first half of the climb leads to an awesome finish. By doing the first pitch of Deconstruction, you could reach the spectacular finish and turn this into a three-star outing.
FFA: Will Dameron & Mike Varlotta, October 2002.

Who Do You Believe (5.8*) - 180'. This was the first climb established during the 2002 development. Same start as Misty Splitter, but from the pines mentioned above, this climb moves up and to the left to gain the dihedral that leads to the roof. Traverse left under the roof until an exit can be found. Like Misty Splitter, the first half of WDYB is very easy. Whereas Misty makes up for it with a spectacular (but shorter) finale, the top of WDYB gives back 40’ of quality climbing.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Anne Jones, Summer 2002.

Further around the corner from Who Do You Believe is this area. You'll need to boulder up a 10' headwall right next to the trail to access the routes here, then scramble up the 20' vegetated slope to get to the cliff proper. The rap station (two ropes, 50-meters minimum) is located at the GPS coordinates.

Jim Pick (5.8***) - 160'. There are several starts that can be done to begin this route. All are 5.5-5.6 in difficulty.

1. The face to the left of the 15' tall left-facing corner
2. The corner itself
3. The arete and far left side of the face around the right of the left-facing corner
4. The face 10' right of #3

There is a 5.9 variation put up by Will and Mike in June 2003. It basically climbs the middle roof on the left side before rejoining the main route.

Jim Pick Wall as seen from the top of Cumber Honey

Deconstruction (5.7***) - 180'. This route uses one of the start variations (#3 or #4 best) as Jim Pick, but climbs up to the right. PITCH 1: After gaining the first ledge continue up the face and to the right until gaining the third series (from left to right) of left-facing flakes. Climb the flakes until it is possible to traverse even further right aiming for a spot more near the somewhat blunt arete. Climb the arete an additional 50-60' until gaining the very large ledge that is approximately 35' below Who Do You Believe. (5.7, 130'). PITCH 2: Clim up and to the right off the belay ledge, gaining the left side of the large rectangular block that is wedged precariously in the headwall. Traverse right along the block until reaching the crack system above it on its right hand side. Once on the block, climb up and to the right until you can exit at the first notch on the right of the Misty Splitter finish (5.7, 50').
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Will Cross, August 2003.

Smoke 'em If You Got 'em (5.10*) - 160'. Use either variation #3 or 4 from the Jim Pick starts. After gaining the first ledge, continue up the face and to the right until gaining the second series of left-facing flakes. Climb the flakes straight up, passing the tree on the left, and then up to and over the next roof at its widest point (crux). Maintain a direct line up to the exit notch of Jim Pick, staying ot the right of the shallow left-facing corner on the top third of Jim Pick. Finish through the exit notch of Jim Pick. Note: the gear under the roof is good, but the next 15' (crux) over the roof is rather difficult to protect.
FA: Mike Varlotta & Jim Johnson, August 2003

You can skirt the roof crux with this variation:

Smoke 'em Variation (5.7***) - Climb Smoke 'em If You Got 'em up to the roof. Skirt around the left side of the roofand rejoin the climb above.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Jim Johnson, August 2003

Second Pick (5.7+*) - 185'. Climb the left side of the Jim Pick Wall to the roof on the left then traverse the breadth of the wall to gain the shallow left-facing corners of Smoke 'em.... Finish on Jim Pick.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Dave Gibson, October 2002.

Slim Pickins (5.10***) - 180'. Climb the start of Jim Pick until reaching the middle roof. Pull the roof and then continue straight up the center of the wall. The top section is “almost R/possibly R” --sustained 5.9/5.10 climbing at times over gear that is not as good nor as close as you’d like. This climb was attempted on two different occasions (whereby the leaders of both teams downclimbed after entering the unknown runout near the top third of the top section). It is the only climb thus far to have been top-roped before being led; although Chris & Bob did send it on their first attempt, with beta only.
FFA: Chris Thomas & Bob Georgantas, June 2004

Left Pick (5.9**) - 160'. Climb the left side of the wall to the roof on the left. Climb out the right side of the roof and then straight to the top.
FFA: Will Dameron & Mike Varlotta, October 2002.

Easy Pickin's (5.7-***) - 175'. Climb Left Pick to the roof and then move left around the roof, up past a ledge to a left-facing inside corner that offers some cool backstepping and stemming moves. Be sure to climb the final 15' section of headwall off the left side of the Jim Pick Rappel ledge.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Will Dameron, June 2003.

Dirty and Cheap... (5.3) - 175'. Start in front of the small trees about 20' to the left of the left-facing corner that bisects the bottom part of the Jim Pick Wall. Climb up and to the left along the path of least foliage until a line can be taken straight up to the top of the cliff.
FFA: Mark Perry and Mike Super, August 2003

This next striking wall is one hundred fifty feet further along the trail. It is capped by a prominent pie-shaped roof to the left of the Jim Pick Wall and marked on the lower half by a wide fractured crack system up the middle of the left page of the open book.

Tips (5.6) - 180'. Climb the right wall of the open book. Not as much good gear as you would think or like.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Will Dameron, October 2002.

Mini-skirt (5.9**) - 180'. Climb the crack in the back of the open book up to the roof that is halfway up the wall. Traverse left under the roof to join up with Yellow for 10' in order to get above the roof. Traverse back right to reconnect with what would be the continuation of the straight line above the open book crack. Continue up this line to the big ledge 20' below the final roof, and then straight up through overhanging ledges to the top.
FFA: Will Dameron & Mike Varlotta, June 2003.

Yellow (5.7**) - 180'. Climb the left side of the open book up the fractured crack that splits the wall. Pass just to the left of the midway roof then follow the crack to the ledge. Finish by moving bcak to the right up the path of least resistance.
FFA: Darrell Spence, 1990s

Richard’s Roof (5.7/5.8**) - ~180’ Climb Cumber Honey (below) to the large roof at the top. From here traverse right under the roof and exit trending upwards to the right. Named after one of the first ascent party members who passed away shortly after the route was done.
FFA: Scott Richards and Tim Anderson, November 1998

Cumber Honey (5.8+***) - 180'. Do not miss this route! Climb the start of Yellow up toward the ledge. When approaching the ledge, rather than moving right, continue straight up and slightly left in order to gain the finger crack that diagnols up and right. This crack leads to the right side of the 30' bulging/overlapping black rock that leads to the final roof over a right-facing corner. Climb the right-facing corner to the center of the roof, then traverse left (good hands, no feet; crux) until you can turn it and pull over on the last moves to the top.
FFA: Mike Varlotta & Will Dameron, September 2002.

The Verve (5.9+*) - 180'. Start on the left side of the ledge from which the previous four climbs begin. Climb the first 20' of face that leads up and just left of a small treee on a ledge. From the tree climb either to the left of the large face/corner to the right (easy) or straight up it (5.8). From atop that ledge, continue up through the middle section of easy climbing until you reach the roof on the left side of the wall that is about 30' from the top. The entire final section is high quality and makes the pitch worth the effort.

Charged Emotion (5.7*) - 180'. This climb can be accessed either from the start of The Verve (and somewhere to the left), or to the right of Cumber Bunny. The climb goes up the section of wall between the two. Start in the right-facing corner. Climb up to a stance beneath an overhang for gear. Continue up the wall straight until you gain a large ledge. From the right side of this ledge pull the rooflet to gain the crack which starts several feet above. Climb this crack then move slightly left for the splitter crack at the top of the headwall. Climb this crack until it ends then head up and left to finish to the right of the loose overhang at the top of the wall.

This next section of routes starts about 45' further down the cliff from Cumber Honey. Scramble up the broken section of wall that meets the path at the three-trunked tree.

Cumber Bunny (5.6) - 180'. Climb the path of least resistance up the first section of wall to the left of the jagged "ship's prow" that marks the leftmost edge of the top of the Cumber Honey Wall.

The Boulder Wall (unrated) - 15-20'. A short way further along the trail (before reaching the start of When the Buffalo Roam) there is a 15-20 foot tall, clean wall that is some 25' wide. Although the landing leaves much to be desired, there are plenty of big holds and traverse possibilities to make this a good area for warming up without having to top off. The wall also appears to offer some harder and very cool problems for those willing to top off.

When the Buffalo Roam (5.6** G) - 190'. Start at the low point of the trail, 45-60' before the upturned tree that marks the base of A Winter'sTale.Start in front of the thin twisted tree and climb directly up the initial 50' face. Continue up and slightly to the right in order to pass on the right the roof 2/3 of the way up the cliff. Continue still further up and more to the right in order to climb behind the final large left-facing flake/corner that leads to the top. The first ascent was done in three pitches while exploring other route possibilities on this section of wall. There are two very large, comfortable ledges if a multi-pitch outing is what you're looking for. On the other hand, double 60-meter ropes would get you to the top in one, long, high-quality pitch.
FFA: Ranjeet Tate, Pat Broderick & Mike Varlotta, September 2003.

Rendezvous With Rama (5.8-*** PG) - ~190'. This is best done in three pitches. Relax and enjoy the views from comfortable belay ledges! PITCH 1 (~90'): Start on the mostly buried boulder, A few feet uphill from a cluster of three small trees, approximately 25' left of the start for When The Buffalo Roam. Boulder up to a stance to get gear in, then boulder up to a ledge with a tree to the right (and other foliage). You can keep the climbing to 5.6 through this initial section by using the hidden flake off to the left. Step over to the tree where a block sticks out from the roof at waist level. Step up onto the block and head up, trending slightly right as you go. Climb up just left of the tree to cleaner rock. The last section (5.7) goes through a shallow corner with a block or two sticking out of it. Look for the key hidden hand hold to get up to the belay alcove. PITCH 2 (~60'): Climb up and right, aiming for a horizontal break about 10' below the roof above, and make an airy traverse around the corner. Step up to a ledge below a small roof. Balance up (5.8-; no gear after the ledge) 12-15' to the spacious belay platform with a moderate sized pine tree. Alternatively, to avoid the 5.8 no-gear crux, traverse right about 5' to a small right to a bractured right-facing corner and climb up that (still no gear, but it's also no harder than 5.7, and is about 5' shorter) to the belay ledge. PITCH 3 (~40'): Climb the short, featured and fractured wall above, pulling through the low roof (5.6) 15' above the belay and drifting up right to any exit you desire (through the notch, through the high roof, step left). The climbing is no harder than 5.6, depending on your exit. The first pitch was established over three different visits while avoiding vultures on the first pitch of Where The Buffalo Roam; pitches 2 & 3 of this route went in on the third visit.
FFA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, Carlos Carro Dupla, Mike Hopkins, Johannes Reisert, Robert 'Bud' Roper, June, 2005

Rama II (5.9*** PG) - 180'. This is almost a variant of Rendezvous With Rama, except that it climbs an almost completely different line, save the start and the end. PITCH 1 (~85'): Begin on Rendezvous With Rama, but do not step right to the tree when you reach the first vegetated ledge. Instead, continue straight on up the wall for another 75 or so feet until you come to a broken ledge above most of the foliage. PITCH 2 (~55'): climb up the wall above, aiming for the narrowest part of the wide, imposing roof above. Be sure to get gear in at the last horizontal, as the crack immediately below the roof is too wide for anything but a #72 Camalot. Find the GOOD handhold at the lip, and reach up to the right-leaning corner crack above (you can get gear in at this point; a red #1 camalot will work) and yard on up. Regain your balance and finish the last moves to the belay ledge above. PITCH 3: Finish on Rendezvous With Rama. The route has plenty of gear-placing opportunities, except for the 10' or so section below the crux roof on pitch 2. Enjoy this climb.
FFA: Christian Kammerer, Mark 'Indy' Kochte, June 2005

A Winter's Tale (5.9-** R) - 180'. From the trail, continue 45-60' past When the Buffalo Roam to the upturned tree at the path's fairly subtle crest. Locate the mini-gendarme on a ledge ~25' above the crest. Climb the lower section of wall beneath and slightly left of the mini-gendarme. Continue up west-facing sections of headwall that meets the clean white roof at the cliff's midway point. Climb the vertical wall until the roof can be passed on the left (note: this is where the climb might deserve an "R" - the crux is over a margine thin wire and a piece of brass). Continue up to the big roof. Traverse some 20' right until you can locate the moderate (5.7) exit through the roof.

A Winter's Tale (The Uncut Version) (5.10** R) - 180'. Climb the original route to the roof. Rather than traversing right to the moderate exit, climb directly up through the broken notch. A pumpy crux that keeps on coming!

Dancing Spanish Through the Chimney (5.8**) - 180'. A two-pitch route. PITCH 1: Use the same start as A Winter's Tale until you reach the 30' vertical section of headwall directly below the clean, white roof. At this point, rather than moving up and left on a diagnol to bypass the roof on the left, move up and right on a diagnol to enter the chimney up to the right. Creative movement and problem solving in the chimney (5.8) are required to continue. Traverse right after this, out to and up and around the TV-sized chockstone that can be seen from the ground. Belay from the ledge just above and right of the chockstone to minimize rope drag. (5.8, 130') PITCH 2: A great second pitch for its grade. Climb directly up from the belay for 15' until it is possible to make a short traverse to the right. After the traverse, finish by climbing a direct line to the top of the cliff. (5.6, 50')

Buffalo Soldier (5.9**) - 180'. Could be a three-* route. PITCH 1: Start about 30' to the left of the start for A Winter's Tale at a small, chest-high roof in front of several trees that mark an (uncommonly) shady belay. Climb up the lower section to the first vine-coverd ledge and then up the next section to the next ledge aiming for the obvious finger crack that splits the roof at about half of the cliff's height. Use the crack to pull the roof and then climb the face above to a spacious ledge (5.6, 100'). PITCH 2: Continue up and left to the notch that passes through the roof and then continue straight to the top. (5.9, 80').

Shardly Worth It (5.5) - 190'. Start about 15' to the right of the left-facing corner that is just to the right of I Wanna Live. Climb up a series of short headwalls that each lead to various large ledges and eventually to the top.

I Wanna Live (5.10+***) - 180'. Without a doubt the area's wildest and most spectacular finish. Climb the wall beneath the impressive-looking square-cut roof approximately 600' from A Winter's Tale. PITCH 1: Climb the broken crack in the middle of the wall to the highest pine tree that is in line with the left side of the roof (5.4, 80'). PITCH 2: Climb up and right from the pine belay back to the middle of the wall and a series of small roofs and overlaps (5.9) to the granddaddy finish (5.10+, 100'). The crux goes out a 7-8' horizontal roof, following a jagged "S" finger crack into a hand traverse/heel hook section and then through the overhanging notch finale. Perhaps 25' of crux in all. Pump Factor High. Gear placements abound - if you can let go long enough to get it in!

I Wanna Give (5.6*) - ~180'. This route is actually to the right of I Wanna Live, but to keep with poetic licensing, listed after. Climb the face just to the left of the bottom left-facing corner that is in line with the right side of the I Wanna Live roof. Climb superb rock up a direct line that skirts first the bottom roof band and then the top one on their right.

The Chase (5.7** G) - Start by climbing the 5', diamond shaped roof, 6 feet off the ground, 130' feet left of the I Wanna Live overhang. Pass the prominent nose on the left side. Continue past a ledge and up the broken column to the large roof above. Breach the roof directly above the column (5.7) or step right to avoid crux number one. Continue to a spacious belay ledge beneath a broken corner. Pitch two, climb the broken corner and flakes, trending up and left to meet the largest roof at a deciduous tree. Mount the roof directly above the tree and climb the easy ground beyond to the final roof. Traversing either left or right will avoid the final crux but it is highly recommended to climb straight through the final roof for a perfect finish to this esthetic line (and the easiest roof on the climb).

Ghetto Booty (5.6** PG) - ~140'. Start 30' right of The Chase, next to the roots of a tree crossing the path at eye level. Climb up to a large block behind a pine tree. Follow straight up to a system of grassy ledges. The belay is to the right at a small pine tree (5.5, 60'). From there climb left of the belay straight up to a shallow right-facing corner with flakes and a vertical crack system. Exit through the notch (5.6, 80').
FFA: Annie Wislowski, Johannes Reisert, May 2006

Gin and Tonic (5.6* PG) - ~140'. Start just to the left of the fallen tree in the shallow corner to the left of Ghetto Booty. Climb until you reach a belay ledge to the right of a triangular roof (5.6, !70'). Continue straight up and move left over the roof. Climb straight up the face above through a series of ledges, over a small roof, and to the top (5.6, ~70').
FFA: Johannes Reisert, Annie Wislowski, May 2006

Cave of Silence (5.5/5.6) - 180'. Start low on the main trail where the far right side of the Amphitheater reaches the trail. PITCH 1. Climb up staying to the right of some small trees, and head for a small alcove the "Cave of Silence" 60'. PITCH 2. Step up to the roof of the Cave and exit left (crux) once out of the cave your will be on the left facing wall of the amphitheater. Shoot straight for the top staying to the right of the amphitheater's main corner and left of the gully at the top. 120' The climb was named because you can barely hear you partner from the Cave of Silence which is something like the cone of silences from the Get Smart show.

Archetype (5.8*) - 40'. Climb the obvious arching crack to the tree (a bit harder and more awkward than it looks).

Low Rider (5.10**) - 100'. From the belay tree, traverse up and left 25' to sling the small tree. From that tree, move up and right back to the first roof. Pop over the roof and up to the next roof under which you traverse left until you can climb through the notch. Of the handful of 5.10s at The Narrows here, this one gets the nod for being the most lead-friendly. There are great moves with good gear on quality rock. Be prepared to handle the initial (easy) traverse off the belay with care - the three-star stuff begins after you sling the tree.

Cha-Cha (5.8**) - 110'. Use the same start as Cheetah, below, but rather than taking a rising diagnol to the left, climb straight up the cliff. Belay under the final large roof and subsequent 5.2 leftward traverse along the ledge to escape the final roof and easily access the Sisters Rappel.

Cheetah (5.7+**) - 130'. Belay from the largest tree on the left side of the amphitheater, about 20-30' left of the start of Archetype. Begin by ascending through large holds up and left on a diagnol. Surmount the penultimate roof gainging a great stance 15' below the final roof and traverse left to gain the large ledge (you can trim down the difficulty to about 5.6 by skirting the roofs on the left by continuing the upward left slanting diagnol in order to gane the large ledge system). The Sisters Rappel is located 50' to the left at the end of the ledge. A 5.9- variation would have you pull through the final roof section and 20' exit crux finish.

Little Jimmie Arete (5.4***) - 120'. This climb can be started along the path below the base of Elisa and Gigi. From the trail, scramble up and right to the bottom of the wall and begin climbing up and right over blocks until gaining the arete. The majority of the climb travels directly up the arete, occasionally moving to one side or the other as the holds lead you. The crux is at the final roof. You can either pull through it (reminding yourself it is only 5.4) or end it at the ledge below and traverse over to the Sisters rap station. It is recommended you finish the route for the full experience. This climb is a classic for its grade. Pleasant, long 5.4 vertical climbing from one big hold to the next. Plenty of rest stance when you need them. Great moves over great rock on great gear. Not to be missed.

Elisa (5.8*) - 85'. This climb ascends the blocky corner on the far right of the wall that can be found around the corner to the left of the amphitheater. It ends at the "Sisters" rappel station on the tree atop the corner (the majority of the climb is a couple of grades easier than the brief, well-protected curx, making for what will feel like an easy climb for the grade).

Gigi (5.9**) - 85'. Climb the face 10' to the left of Elisa. Surmount the low roof at its widest point. Continue up through the bulging section and then up through and amidst the many small triangular roofs. Top off at the same point as Elisa.

The Test (5.7**) - 100'. Bashed fingers, red [biting] ants, a huge teetering rock that was a key handhold...next to a wasp next, a sliced rope, and impending darkness made this climb one for the first ascentionists (Mike Varlotta and Will Dameron) to remember. Start 20' to the left of the Sisters corner. Climb directly up the lower face to the first tree and then up the middle section of cliff to the second tree. Move slightly to the right a short ways above the first tree and gradually move back to the left to reach the second. Because of darkness the climb was ended at the same ledge as the Sisters rappel rather than sending it through the vinal roof band. Variation (5.9): maintain the most direct line possible up from the first tree (rather than moving slightly to the right) in order to climb the roof and low angle section directly above it.

The Ballad of El Goodoo (5.9*) - 170'. 45' left of Gigi, start directly above the 4' sawed off tree trunk. Climb straight up through blocky ledges and flakes to the triangular notch that is 15' to the right of its twin triangular notch. Climb through the notch and straight to the top. Given the rotten nature of some of the rock, belayers might consider being well off to the side so as to 1) not get pancaked and 2) minimize potential rope cutting events.

White Corner (5.10-**) - 170'. 60' further up the trail there are some belay seat stones placed at the crotch of a two-trunked tree. Climb the right side of the scooped out area of rock slightly to the left of the belay tree. Gain the short vertical crack that is 25' high. Continue straight up to the left-facing white corner. Climb the corner and then up to the white roofs, passing them on the left until you can step back on top of them in order to pull the next roof band that is 20-30' below the top roof (crux) band. Atop of the middle roof angle up and left to gain the horizontal crack/ledge that runs out to the right underneath the highest roof. Unlike some of the harder roofs in the area, this one stays cruxy for several moves beyond the lip of the second roof (but not so much cruxy as surprisingly without much pro until you get to the third roof).

Con Cuidado (5.9+ R) - 170'. The first ascent climbed the route straight up which entailed ascending the loose unprotectable section mentioned in The Ballad Wall descriptor above. This required climbing next to, behind, and ultimately up and over the massive square blocks that lead to the square notch. It would be possible to hit the lower cruxes, meander left onto Maid... and then return right for the exit crux - thus avoiding the "R" section of the route.

A Man Needs A Maid (5.7+***) - 170'. Climb the left side of the scooped-out section up through several tiered sections of left-facing corners to the ledge beneath the final roof (this is the same ledge mentioned in Con Cuidado). Climb up to the roof and then traverse left beneath it into and up through the left-hand notch.

Sunshine Buttress is a striking butress with climbing on both faces of a 90 degree arete. It is located about 200 yards north of the Ballad Wall. The trail goes down, then follows ducks across and up a couple of scree slopes. The first two climbs are on the south facing wall.

Getting down from Sunshine Buttress:
You can bushwhack a walkdown by going south along the ridge about 100 yards, just past a meadow on the ridge, then working down through a tree-covered ledge and scree system. You can see this route quite well from the top of Sunshine. There is a bit of careful scrambling involved, but by judicious route selection, it can be done quite safely. It brings you out on one of the scree fields between Sunshine Buttress and the Ballad Wall.

The Further Passage (a.k.a., Sorry Ray) (5.8+***) - 100'. Good things come to those who wait...but not to those who wait too late! The route is on the south face of the buttress and ascends the obvious left facing corner that forms the right side of a 6 foot wide scoop to a ledge at 2/3 height, then left toward and sometimes on the arete to the top (you could probably go right instead of left off the ledge at a similar grade, but the arete is fun). Start straight below the route. Climb up to the corner system, then enjoy the stemming up the corner. It is more strenuous than it looks, but fun climbing.

The Klophaus Dameron (5.8*) - 120'. Start just to the left of The Further Passage. Climb the wall directly to the top.

The Lost Era (5.8*) - 120'. Upon first climbing this route, Will Dameron discovered several piton remnants of a previous era of activity at quality Cumberland. These pitons must be clipped for protection and range in. Some appear good, others may need to be equalized to ensure safety. Scramble down the series of ledges and around the free-standing pillar. Move X feet left of this pillar to a small arete leading up to a stance for gear. Head up and slightly right to the right hand edge of the obvious overhang, clipping a piton on the right of the overhangs. Head directly up to the next two pitons, then begin moving up and left, clipping another piton, then head directly up to the top.

[the exact location of the following few routes is not 100% known by me at this time, but are to the left of the main Sunshune Buttress]

Fortune Cookies And A G-String (5.5 G) - Located over on the Sunshine Buttress area. Route description unavailable at this time.

Where The Sun Don't Shine (aka West Virginia Girl) (5.4* G) - Start the same as Partial Eclipse (below) but climb into the chimney. Continue straight up to a TV-sized chockstone, then head up and right into the deeper part of the chimney. You can see light from a hole at the top - aim for that! Holds abound as does pro placements. The crux is at the near end where you have to do a difficult squeeze while moving up and left to gain a stance still in the chimney but just below the belay ledge. If you've never gone caving, this might give you an idea of what some cavers do underground - without rope!

Partial Eclipse (5.8**) - 70'. Locate the massive, left-facing chimney formed by an enormous flake 30' up from the start of the climb, between Fortune Cookies... and Easy-X. Climb up to and through the chimney to the top then escape to the right and onto the face.

Easy-X (5.3 X) - 70'. Start about 20' right of Where The Sun Don't Shine and Partial Eclipse. An easy climb and a good route to play on to gain the large ledge and 4th class ramp, there is only one real opportunity for protection in a horizontal seam about 50' up.

This wall is on the right side of the 4th class gully, which bisects the middle of the far cliff. The wall faces west by south west and receives a good deal of sunshine in late morning until sunset. It was 47 degrees in Cumberland, and that wall was so sunny that we were climbing in T-shirts. It begins at a 5-6ft tall block with a small tree growing out its top, and it continues to the right until the mossy ledge (very few thorns) comes to a protruding rock buttress on its right hand side. There is an easy down climb at this buttress that leads to a lower shelf, and also an easy up climb that leads to another 4th class ramp, which appears to continue to the cliff top. The most obvious features of the wall are the 6ft block with the tree, a white area 15 feet right of the block, which leads to some small black overhangs, a ledge (at 35’-40’ off the deck) just above the overhangs, and a huge 60’ tall column of rock with overhangs to the top.

Fair to Middlin’ (5.10*** PG/R) - 100’ Note: this grade needs to be confirmed - it may be harder, but it needs to be repeated for further verification. Start directly beneath the whitish area/small overhangs and climb up to the overhangs. Pull past the small overhangs using a small crack system on the left (harder) or directly through the middle of the overhang (easier). Gain the rock ledge, and climb directly up some easier ground to the next overhang with a small tree growing out of the crack. Pull the overhang (crux) on the left side of the tree and continue directly up the face to the top. This is an excellent climb with really exciting moves to pull through the overhangs.
FFA: Bob Georgantas and Lindsey Grenier, Nov. 13th, 2004

Fair to Piddlin’ (5.7** G) - 110’ A variation of Fair to Middlin’. Start directly beneath the whitish area/small overhangs and climb up to the overhangs. Pull past the small overhangs using a small crack system on the left (harder 5.7 crux) or directly through the middle of the overhang (easier 5.6 crux). Gain the rock ledge, and climb directly up some easier ground to the next overhang with a small tree growing out of a crack. Move right of the overhang and the small tree to gain an easy corner to the top. Even without the second overhang, this is a great route since the moves through both crux variations are interesting.
FFA: Bob Georgants and Lindsey Grenier, Nov. 13th, 2004

This is called the Briar Rabbit Wall since he is the only creature that could have gotten to the base of the wall without being ripped to shreds by the abundant thorn bushes, which the first assensionists had to deal with-thank you Prana for making thick Denim/Kelvar pants…

The Flake and Crack Coalition (5.6* G/PG) - 105’ Climb the short thin face (crux) to gain a beautiful right facing flake with a ledge on its right hand side. Stay on the short face between the flake and the off-width crack about 4 feet to the left of the flake. Use the flake and off-width (very nice climbing) to gain a ledge about 50’ up. Climb over some easy ground and slightly to the right to gain an easy corner to the top. G rated with a few big cams (#4, #4.5, and #5 Camalot; or two #4 and one #5 Camalot C4, or two #3 and one #4 Big Bros) for the off-width.

The Far Wall area is the shortest (height-wise) stuff here, and being so far away, will probably see the least amount of traffic at this crag. Since the routes are so short (from 20' to ~60'), it is relatively easy to set up top-ropes on these routes. However, given the walk, and all the great climbing you would pass on the way here, you'll probably opt to save the top-roping stuff for crags closer to home and concentrate on the earlier-mentioned taller stuff off to the right half of the cliff. Nevertheless, there are worthy routes in this section worth doing, if not necessarily worth driving out exclusively for.

The rock actually continues on into the woods to the right, but it is heavily overgrown, with only a few unexplored 'towers' poking out of the trees.

For ease of locating routes, the climbs are described from left to right as you face the wall.

Phat Ass Potatoes (5.2 G) - 20'. Climb the blocky face to the left and around the corner of Hot As Slim Silver. This is about as far left as you can go along the main wall before you reach another break (and the cliff continues on through the woods).
FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, Phil Hodge, July 2004

Hot As Slim Silver (5.8*) - 32'. Begin a few feet left of the large left-facing corner. Climb up to and through the small roof to a blank-looking face above split by two thin horizontals. Trend slightly left, aiming for the arete as you pass the roof, and finish on the arete to the top. Solid 5.8 crux.
FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, June 2004

Size Isn't Everything (5.4* G) - 32'. Climb the blocky left-facing corner next to a short and deep chimney that becomes a wide handcrack halfway up. Stem the corner and use the crack or just climb the left-facing blocky face itself; the grade is the same either way. Looks more intimidating than it really is.
FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, June 2004

Trundle Monkey (5.8* PG) - 40'. Climb the deep, blocky roof-ridden outside corner to the right of Size Isn't Everything to the top.
FA: Scott Haines, June 2004

Free Falling (5.6/5.7*) - 40'. Climb through the wide but narrow roof a few feet right of Trundle Monkey, then straight up the face to the top.
FFA:Scott Haines, June 2004

He Speaks Foreign (5.4) - 40'. From the belay ledge below, climb up through a wide weakness between two blocks to gain a ledge with a large fin-like block to the right. Step left until over a bush, then head straight up the face, passing to the right of a shallow right-facing corner a few feet right of Free Falling.
FA: Phil Hodge, June 2004

I Speak Regular (5.7) - 40'. Start the same as He Speaks Foreign, but once at the ledge, pull through the overhang and continue straight up the steep face w/out using the fin-like block on the ledge. The black finger crack is deceptively shallow and flaring, but has a three-finger pocket that is key.
FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, June 2004

Treppensteigen (5.4) - 38'. German for "stair climbing". Begin X feet right of I Speak Regular, scramble up big ledges to a brown-tan right-facing blocky corner until it ends below a whitish rock left-facing corner. Transition from the lower to upper corner and finish on the upper corner to easier ground to the top.
FA: Angela Roberts, June 2004

Project (5.v-hard) - 38'. Do the same initial scramble as for Treppensteigen, but instead of following the corner, head straight up the fractured face to a small overhang. Pull through the overhang directly and finish on the steep face above (thin!). Once above this, easier climbing yields the top.

Gesundheit (5.9** X) - 38'. Best line in this section of the cliff. Don't sneeze at the crux! Begin as Treppensteigen and project, but instead of pulling the small overhang directly, trend right to the higher section of the overhang to gain two dynamite and bomber underclings. Work right on the underclings and reach up to a thin flake in the black wannabe finger crack. You may find a kneebar extremely helpful at this point. Work up and right one more move to catch the U-slot notch (bomber hold). A couple more struggling moves will surmount this stiff section and bring relief in the form of larger holds. A powerful, technical crux section. Best top-roped; no gear for leading.
FA: Johannes Reisert, June, 2004

Easy Corner (5.5) - 46'. Begin ~20 feet right of Gesundheit, climb the long, blocky corner to the top. The crux is in the first half of the climb. As the finish is anticlimatic, to spice up the final stretch, near the top of the corner turn right and climb the blank-looking wall (5.6+) just left of the roof at the top of the cliff.
FA: Patrick Polvinale, June 2004

Solid Adrenal-Ten (5.10* X) - 46'. Start on Easy Corner, but once on a wide ledge partway up climb the steep and forboddingly thin wall directly below the roof at the top on thinner holds with imaginary foot placements (avoid using the blocky corner for feet if at *all* possible). At the roof pull it on the right. Best top-roped; no gear for leading.
FA: Scott Haines and Mark 'Indy' Kochte, June 2004

This section is barely 40' tall, and has an amazing abundance of blueberry bushes growing all around the area. Careful where you step! Many of the blueberry bushes are protected from birds by massive greenbriar with dagger-like thorns. The bushes not protected will be eaten clean probably before you get there, so try to take care with any maintenance trimming you do here (in order to have blueberries to munch on between climbs). The routes are again listed from left to right, using the Far Wall routes as the initial measuring point.

The routes are again listed from left to right, using the Far Wall routes as the initial measuring point.

Desert Rose (~5.4/5.5) - 41'. This route starts at a six-foot tall right-facing corner behind a multi-trunked oak tree 55' right of Easy Corner. Scramble up the corner and step left a few feet until below the blocky arete. Climb up through continuous blocks on good holds, passing directly through a stained rose-colored section of rock halfway up. Continue to the top.
FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, July 2004

Blueberry Bush (5.5* PG) - 41'. This line ascends a few feet right from Desert Rose, starting in the middle of a blueberry bush patch. Head straight up the wall to the top. Several variations are possible, but all are essentially about the same difficulty level. The 'PG' lead rating is only because if you fall, you _will_ hit a ledge somewhere along the drop.
FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, July 2004

Blueberry Pie (5.7*) - 40'. Start 5' right of Blueberry Bush, climb straight up, aiming for the hardest-looking section of rock halfway up (a blankish-looking concave section capped by shallow, dark overhangs). Pull through the 'hangs (crux) to easier ground. Take care to not climb hard on the column to the right at the top! The first ascention team attempted to kick this lose, but it wouldn't budge. Feels pretty solid. However, it looks quite fragile. Your belayer may be decidedly unhappy with you if this breaks up while you are on it.
FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, July 2004

Sassafras Tree (5.4) - 40'. Start 5' right of Blueberry Pie, take the path of least resistance to the top, ended up just right of the column at the top. Without using the column, climb the final 7 or so feet to the top (crux).
FA: Lisa V Smith, July 2004

This is the next area to the right of Blueberry Wall, where the first route stars approximately 70' to the right of Sassafras Tree. This section is the left end of the Sci-Fi Wall area.

Red Shirts Rule (5.7*) - ~45'. Start on the left end of a the rectangular boulder at the base of the cliff. Climb straight up through the blocky overhang approximately 12' up, then continue up the broken face to the overhanging arete. Skip up the right side of the pointed arete through a notch at the top.
FA: Mark ‘Indy’ Kochte, October 2004

Aragorn (5.8* PG/R) - ~45'. Start just to the right of the rectangular boulder that marks the start of Red Shirts Rule, a few feet before the right-facing corner with small elm at the base of it. Climb the steep wall up to and through two small successive roofs (5.7; height-dependent problem; you can make life easier by avoiding them to the right). Continue up the featured wall to a small ledge. Finish on the steep wall below the final rounded crux roof (protectable with large-ish gear).
FFA: Mark ‘Indy’ Kochte, Aura Garrison, October 2004

Redneck Martians (5.4 G) - ~45'. Start 5' right of the small elm tree at the base of a right-facing blocky corner. Climb up the deep, broken black crack system straight to the pine tree overhanging the wall from the broad ledge above. Push through to the right onto the gravel- and dirt-covered ledge, then quickly escape over easy 4th class terrain up to the right.
FFA: Mark ‘Indy’ Kochte, Aura Garrison, October 2004

Striped With Radiation (5.8+? R/PG) - ~45'. Start as for Redneck Martians, but instead of climbing the crack system, stay on the steep face to the right of it and climb straight up to the gravel- and dirt-covered ledge. Up to that point the climbing is quite easy. From the ledge aim up left for the large detached block in the steep wall above the pine tree. Continue up left past the detached block (pumpy crux) to the top, ending just to the right of Aragorn. While protection is sparse on the first part of the climb, the crux finish takes good gear.
FA: Aura Garrison, Mark ‘Indy’ Kochte, October 2004

The main section of the SF Wall stars with the tall buttress and continues on for ~150-200' to a large right facing corner. Routes here range from top-rope to lengthy one or short two-pitch leads.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°40.249'
Long: W078°46.782'

project (5.?) - As yet unfinished. Climb the left side of the buttress that bisects the Sci Fi Wall.

War of the Worlds (5.5) - ~40'. Climb the large, blocky, slightly overhanging right-facing corner of the tall buttress to a narrow notch near the top.
FA: Mark ‘Indy’ Kochte, Johannes Reisert, June 2005

War and Peace (5.7) - ~40'. Begin 5' right of War of the Worlds, between the moderately-sized oak tree and the main wall. Casually weave through overhangs to a small roof, and pass the roof on the left, gaining a small stance with a tree (crux). Easy, peaceful climbing from there gains the top.
FA: Johannes Resiert, Mark ‘Indy’ Kochte, June 2005

You Klingon Bastard (5.9) - ~40'. Start 10' right of War of the Worlds. Climb straight up and through a series of small roofs and bulges. The final bulge halfway up the wall is passed on the right (pulling it straight on seriously ups the ante on this route). After the final bulge gain a ledge, and continue past that up the final short steep section to the top.
FA: Mark ‘Indy’ Kochte, October 2004

Use The Force (5.8* PG) - ~40'. Pumpy crux, do as the route name suggests! Begin 5' right of You Klingon Bastard, just to the left of a series of left-facing corner cracks at the base of the rock wall. Wander up the steep dark tan face to the roof. Pull through the roof following a crack of weakness (extended crux, pumpy for hanging out placing gear) onto the white rock above, then up to a ledge. Finish on the pleasant final wall up through a square corner at the top.
FA: Mark ‘Indy’ Kochte, October 2004

Crackers Don't Matter (5.5 G) - ~40'. Crackers might not, but handholds do! Start with the right two of the three left-facing corner cracks, ~6' right of Use The Force. Climb up following the taller crack system (right) to a small roof where the handholds run out. Step right onto a small hold and pull around the roof (crux) onto a blocky ledge/ramp system. Finish by heading up left over easy ground to the top.
FA: Mark ‘Indy’ Kochte, Lisa V Smith, October 2004

Number Six (5.6 PG) - ~35'. Starting 8' right of Crackers..., climb up the bulgy face through small shelves to a broad ledge about halfway up. Continue straight up to a small bulging block/roof system just right of a small pine growing out from the wall near the top. Pull the block and easy ledges to the top. Beware that some of the ledges may be sandy. FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, Toni Price, November 2006

New Caprica (5.9) - ~35'. Start about 12' right of Crackers.... Climb up easy holds to a broad ledge. Continue straight up to a short, left-facing flake/corner, passing it on the left. Make a few somewhat not-so-positive moves until a sandy ledge is gained, then pull up to finish on a final few jugs. Crux is the wall just above the broad ledge. FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, November 2006

Arrow of Apollo (5.7) - ~35'. Climb the first half of New Caprica. Instead of heading up to the left-facing flake/corner, climb the face to the left, aiming for the right side of the block roof system at the top of Number Six. Pass it on the right and up easy shelves to the top. FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, Toni Price, November 2006

This stretch of rock is the tan and grey wall to the right of the Sci-Fi Wall, starting with the huge right-facing corner, and going over to a shallower left-facing corner/chminey ~150' away. The center section of this wall is featured with a stretch of tan rock adjacent to a stretch of grey rock. There is a fair amount of dust on some of the climbs, from water run-off from the top. Take care in the area that there are still loose holds, and definitely loose rocks up at the top. You can either rappel in, or traverse over along the base from the Sci-Fi Wall.

Ariete Arete (5.8** R/PG) - ~40'. 'Ariete' is Italian for 'ram', and is the name of the elite Italian armoured division that served in North Africa during WWII before it was destroyed to the last tank by the British 8th Army during the third battle of El Alamein. This route climbs directly up the sharp arete seperating the Sci-Fi Wall and the DAK Wall. Hug the arete and climb it straight to the top. There are places to put gear above the crux (which is at the bottom, hence the 'R' part of the rating), but some of the blocks higher up are not to be trusted, as a good fall could very well blow out a stack of them onto your belayer.
FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte 5/20/2006

Halfaya Pass (5.7* PG) - ~40'. Start a few feet right of the sharp Ariete Arete and climb up the blocky corner system to the top, ending a few feet right of the arete itself. As with Ariete, there are gear placements for leading is there, but some of it is not bomber, as some of the blocks are not solidly in place and could blow out on a fall. FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, May 2006

Deutsches Afrika Korps (5.5+) - ~40'. Start at a set of finger cracks below a crack that seperates the tan wall on the left from the grey on the right, 50' right of the large right-facing corner. Climb up to a sandy ledge (crux), the follow the slowly widening crack to the top, climbing on the tan or grey rock as you need. Feet get a little tricky up near the top. Take care of loose blocks on the left as you climb the final few moves. FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, June 2005

21.PanzerDivision (5.8*) - ~40'. This clean line starts 10' right of Deutches Afrika Korps, at the right end of a wide and narrow roof 6' off the ground. Boulder up through the roof and short wall above to a spacious ledge. Work up to a right side pull/flake on the next steep section in order to gain a series of horizontals, not all of which are as nice as you'd like them to be (avoiding the side pull flake bumps the rating to about 5.9 or so), gaining a small ledge with a small tree. Finish on the clean rock above to an easy exit. FA: Mark 'Indy' Kochte, June 2005

German Hair Force (5.6) - ~40'. Begin 5' right of 21.PzDv. Climb up an obscure line to a shallow corner with a crack. Finish by following the corner/crack system to the top. This tends to be dirty due to the run-off of silt and dust from above. FA: Johannes Reisert, June 2005

This outcrop tower can be seen far to the left of The Far Wall area, poking lonely out of the woods. It actually is easy to reach, but takes a bit of time. You can either follow the directions to The Far Wall area, but instead of veering off into the woods at the arrow-head rock, continue on the trail (semi-overgrown with greenbrier due to lack of foot traffic) until you reach the dirt road. Turn left and follow this to a wide area where the road bends hard to the right, and go off left to the overlook. This is the top of the Tower. An alternate way to go would be to follow the dirt road from the paved road of the plastics factory the entire way. It will add a few minutes to the walk, but you will be free of greenbrier.